Велико Търново (Veliko Turnovo)

Eight months after my first visit, which was spoiled by a wicked combination of rain and food poisoning, I finally made my way back to Велико Търново (Veliko Turnovo). There may be more enjoyable Bulgarian towns to kill a few days, but I’ve yet to visit such places. In contrast with many Bulgarian towns, Veliko Turnovo is eye-catching, clean, and cultured. And without any pretense or stuffiness. With great views, great food, and great history, there is little about Veliko Turnovo not to like. Whether strolling down the cobblestone streets of old town popping in and out of the various shops tended by artists, artisans, and craftsmen, or sipping on a beer or glass of wine while soaking in the history of the place, or rambling around the ruins of the Tsarevets fortress, Veliko Turnovo is just one of those places which makes you feel happy to be alive.

On this trip, I focused on landscapes, mainly of or from Tsarevets. Next time, I will try to photograph the craftsmen, artists, and artisans busy at work in their shops.

At Day's End ...

There are certain sounds and smells which I’ll forever associate with Bulgaria and which I know I’ll miss when I’m gone. One such sound is the sound of bells ringing as shepherds and goat herders bring in their flocks and herds at day’s end. It’s a sound which rings through towns and villages throughout Bulgaria almost every spring, summer, and fall evening. It’s a sound I’m glad my brother and wife were able to hear.

First the folks gather at various spots around town, catch up on the latest gossip, and wait.


Then the shepherds bring home the sheep.


Bringing traffic to a halt as the streets fill with sheep looking for their owners and vice versa.




Then come the goats, as semis speed by overhead and cars pass carefully along the side.


Incredibly, all within 30 kilometers of the nation's capital.

Рилски манастир (Rila Monastery)

Many Bulgarians consider Рилски манастир (Rila Monastery) to be Bulgaria’s greatest treasure and the country’s number one must-see tourist attraction. After living here for more than a year, I finally made my way to the monastery. It’s definitely worth seeing, but I enjoyed the drive to the monastery and a walk in the surrounding countryside more than the monastery itself. And, while I might make it back to monastery at some point, I’d be much more inclined to spend my time further exploring the Rila Mountains. But, in my opinion, Bulgaria’s greatest asset, exclusive of its people, are its mountains and the nature.

Monks gathering for a photo at the monastery.


The area around the monastery is great for hiking, despite the fact the trails aren't very well marked or maintained.



Wild, or at least free-ranging, horses are frequently encountered in the nearby meadows.



The horses munch on grass and some of the abundant wildflowers.

The Bulgarian Presidential Guards

It doesn’t take much to entertain me. Case in point – a model posing with the Bulgarian Presidential Guards followed by some high-stepping by the guards. It’s not exactly Buckingham Palace and the guards aren’t nearly as stoic, but, to their credit, they did reserve their smirking until the shoot was over. I, on the other hand, couldn’t refrain from laughing at all of it.

The Senior Ball

My guests’ indoctrination into Bulgarian culture began with a night of partying with the seniors at their ball. A senior ball in Bulgaria is not unlike a senior prom in America. Most of the kids are drunk, the clothes are ridiculously gaudy, the music is bad and the dancing worse, but almost everyone seems to have a good time. The major differences are that the kids can all drink legally (the drinking age is 18) and the ball takes place after the seniors finish school (seniors here finish in early May while the other high school students don’t finish until June 30th).

The 25 or so seniors and a few of the teachers from school.


These two were voted the equivalent of king and queen.


Of course, there were the court jesters.


There was plenty of horo.


But this guy provided most of the entertainment early in the evening.


Then the rakia started working it's magic, and he had some competition.


Actually, it wasn't really much of a competition. Somebody obviously needs to get out more.


But, at the end of the night, just as it is back home, it was bittersweet seeing the seniors all come together for one final dance.

Visitors

Last week, I had my first visitors from back home. My little brother (in age if not girth) and his wife made their way across the pond to pay me a visit. This was cool not only because I was able to spend time with them, but because I was able to introduce them in a personal way to Bulgaria – a place which never would have made their radar screen but for me serving here as a Peace Corps volunteer. One day was lost thanks to Wizzair’s ineptitude, and a second one was lost following a first round knockout delivered by rakia. But, even though I had some teaching to do, and my brother and his wife each require a minimum of fourteen hours of sleep per day, exclusive of naps, they saw and experienced quite a bit. I can only hope they enjoyed their time in Bulgaria as much as I enjoyed having them here.

The happy couple in the Rila Mountains.

Recipe #10: Миш-Маш (Mish-Mash)

Миш-Маш (Mish-Mash) is another extremely popular and simple to prepare Bulgarian dish.

Ingredients:
3 medium tomatoes, chopped
3 red peppers, chopped
1 onion, chopped
2 tablespoons of oil
½ pound of сирене (feta cheese), crumbled
3 eggs
fresh parsley, chopped
salt and pepper to taste

Directions:
Heat the oil in a frying pan. Add the onions and the peppers and cook until the onions are golden. Add the tomatoes and cook for an additional 3 minutes. Add the cheese and eggs and cook for another 3 minutes. Garnish with fresh parsley and serve.

A plate of Миш-Маш with a couple slices of toast. Great for breakfast, lunch, or dinner.