Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Мелник и Роженски манастир (Melnik and Rozhen Monastery)

A couple weeks ago, I enjoyed a long weekend in Мелник (Melnik). While there, I briefly visited the nearby Роженски манастир (Rozhen Monastery). There's been plenty written about both places by others, and I don't really have much to add. The area is known for three things: outstanding wine (apparently the local stuff was Winston Churchill's favorite, and he bought 500 liters annually); interesting architecture; and unique, natural sandstone pyramids. None of those three things is enough to lure me back, but, surrounded by friends, I can't think of another place I'd have rather been.

Here are some shots of and from around town.






















As much as I enjoyed hanging out with friends in Melnik, the highlight for me was a two hour walk from Rozhen to the Rozhen Monastery and then Melnik. Glorious weather, fall colors, amazing sandstone pyramids ... it was brilliant.
















Thursday, September 29, 2011

Recipe #16: Печени чушки с чесън (Roasted Peppers with Garlic)

I'm still working on my stash of peppers, and this is a super easy "salad" that I really love - Печени чушки с чесън (Roasted Peppers with Garlic).

Ingredients:
6 peppers
2 large garlic cloves
3 teaspoons oil
1½ teaspoons vinegar
salt
fresh parsley

Directions:
Preheat oven to 400° F (or use broiler).
Cut tops off peppers.
Quarter peppers lengthwise and discard seeds and ribs.
Place peppers, skin sides up, on pan and bake until skins are blistered and slightly blackened.
Transfer peppers to a bowl, cover, and let stand until cool enough to touch.
Peel skin from peppers and cut each pepper lengthwise in half.
Mince garlic.
Toss peppers, garlic, oil, and vinegar in bowl and add salt to taste.
Cover peppers, place in fridge, and allow to marinate (preferably overnight).
Serve with fresh, chopped parsley.

Roasted Peppers with Garlic.

Saturday, September 24, 2011

Recipe #15: Пълнени чушки с яйца и сирене (Stuffed Peppers with Eggs and Cheese)

While some people prefer their peppers stuffed with meat and rice, others, including me, prefer a different kind of stuffed peppers - Пълнени чушки с яйца и сирене (Stuffed Peppers with Eggs and Cheese). This is a simple recipe for making such peppers.

Ingredients:
10 peppers
3 eggs
14 ounces cirene (feta)
3 tablespoons oil
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 cup fresh parsley, chopped

Directions:
Preheat oven to 350° F.
Cut off tops of peppers and remove the seeds.
Beat the eggs, grate the cheese, and combine and mix in a bowl with spices and fresh parsley.
Stuff each pepper with the mixture.
Grease an oven proof dish with oil.
Put peppers in dish.
Cover dish with foil and cook peppers for approximately 20 minutes in oven.
Uncover and cook for another 10-15 minutes until the peppers are fully cooked.

Stuffed Peppers with Eggs and Cheese.

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Recipe #14: Пълнени чушки с кайма и ориз (Stuffed Peppers with Mincemeat and Rice)

September in Bulgaria is a feast. Gardens overflow with tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, potatoes, apples, grapes, and other homegrown fruits and vegetables. What doesn't get eaten gets canned in preparation for the long, cold winter ahead. Being one who much prefers veggies fresh as opposed to canned, I have been gorging myself every day thanks to the hard work and incredible generosity of Баба Ристена (Baba Ristena). Таратор (Tarator) and Шопска салата (Shopska Salad) have been staples of my diet, but lately I've been inundated with peppers. To remedy this "problem," I've taken to making what a friend describes as a "true Bulgarian dish" - Пълнени чушки (Stuffed Peppers).

Here's her recipe:

Ingredients:
10-12 large peppers
1 cup rice
1 lb. mincemeat
4 medium-sized tomatoes
2 onions
3 tablespoons oil
1 tablespoon paprika
Salt and pepper to taste
Fresh parsley
Yogurt

Directions:
Cook the rice.
Preheat oven to 375° F
Cut off tops of peppers and remove the seeds.
Heat oil in a frying pan.
Finely chop the onions and fry in oil for 2-3 minutes.
Add the meat and cook 5 minutes.
Add the rice and diced tomatoes.
Add salt, pepper, and paprika.
Cook for 2 minutes.
Stuff each pepper with the mixture.
Put in an oven proof deep dish.
Fill the dish half way with water.
Cover dish with foil and cook for approximately 30 minutes in oven.
Uncover and cook for another 15-20 minutes until the peppers are fully cooked.
Sprinkle with fresh parsley.
Serve with plain yogurt on the side.

Stuffed Peppers with Mincemeat and Rice.

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Bulgaria Through a Friend's Eyes

A fellow volunteer, the one from Горно Дряново (Gorno Dryanovo) who recently had a "wedding," put together a remarkable video capturing her time in Bulgaria. We were first shown the video at our close of service conference. Several of us were moved to tears. Surprisingly, few of the Bulgarians who watched the video with us were as moved as we were. Talking to some of them afterward, it was apparent why. They are from larger cities and the video does not represent their "Bulgaria." No, it's not everyone's Bulgaria. But it is someone's, and it's awfully special.

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

A Tale of Two Weddings

A little over a year ago I visited Горно Дряново (Gorno Dryanovo) for the first time. I loved it and vowed to return. The volunteer living there told me I needed to come back for a wedding, and she promised to tell me when there would be such a wedding. As her departure date grew near and I still hadn’t heard anything, I resigned myself to the fact I wouldn’t witness a wedding in Gorno Dryanovo. Then, at the last hour, I was invited to a wedding. And not just any wedding. Her wedding!

So, in mid July, I returned to Gorno Dryanovo for a village wedding … sort of anyway. It was a staged "made for TV" and "made for the village babas" "wedding." No matter. The entire weekend was beyond brilliant. Prior to the "wedding," a group of us put the final touches on a map created as part of the World Map Project, opened a new sports’ center (and kicked some Bulgarian ass in soccer thanks to some favorable officiating), and celebrated the groom’s birthday. The entire time we enjoyed the company of the hospitable and gracious locals, and, ultimately, we joined the entire village in celebrating the "wedding" of two people who we’d all grown to love. It was the perfect end to two years of service together and perhaps the best weekend of my service in Bulgaria.

Even though I knew the village would be the perfect place for some amazing "wedding" photos, I left my camera at home and just enjoyed the festivities. Details of the "wedding" can be found here, but I think pictures tell the story as good or better than words.

This is one of my favorite shots of the happy couple (Photo by James Gholson).

The second wedding had no chance of comparing to the first, but it was fun, interesting, and a great thing to have been invited to. Since it was my first actual “Bulgarian” wedding, I did bring my camera along (but I hung out in the back far away from the action and behind a lot of other people). Here’s what transpired.

The bride and groom were separated. The bride and her friends got ready for the wedding in one place, and the groom and his friends “prepared” for the wedding in another place.

A little after 3:00 p.m., the groom and his entourage departed for an apartment where the bride was holed up.

Here are the groom's friends waiting for him to come out.

At 3:30, the groom's entourage arrived at the bride's apartment. The groom came with a bag full of coins which he would use to bribe his way into the apartment. Some of his friends had crowbars and other tools for breaking in the door just in case we were refused admittance.

The groom's entourage gathered outside of the bride's apartment.

People watching from above.


The pied piper leading everyone into the apartment.

After being admitted, the groom first had to find the bride and then he had to find her shoes. Not surprisingly, the shoes didn’t fit requiring the groom to make them fit by adding money to them. Once the shoes fit, the bride and groom kissed, and everyone had a drink or two to celebrate.

The bride was found and the shoes fit, so everyone could drink and be merry.


Then everyone left the apartment, and the wedding party went out into the courtyard and danced horo.

The triumphant bride emerged.

And then the dancing started.




Following a couple dances, it was off to a civil ceremony, which would make the wedding official.

The governmental hall was like a cattle call with one wedding after another. Great care was taken to make sure no two brides crossed paths, as such an encounter would bring bad luck to their marriages.

Waiting to enter the wedding hall.


Inside the hall.

A strange ritual where the bride and groom attempt to eat each other.

Exchanging vows.


They're married!

"Oh, well," the groom thinks, "Nothing I can do about it now."

The reception line.

Some of the many flowers, chocolates, and other gifts.

The newlyweds emerge.

After the civil ceremony, everyone piled into their cars and headed to the church so that the wedding could be recognized and blessed by the church.














An obligatory flower girl pose before heading off to the reception.

I wish both couples nothing but success and happiness and thank them for allowing me to be part of their most special days.