Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Тодоровден (St. Theodore's Day or Horse Easter)

Five of us had jammed into a taxi for the short ride from Стара Загора (Stara Zagora) to the nearby village of Могила (Mogila). We were pretty excited, perhaps too excited. We were, after all, only going to Могила because we were curious to see the village's infamous "Gypsy Bride Market" for ourselves. Our excitement grew as we passed horse-cart after horse-cart of Roma people along the way, all presumably headed to the bride market.

That excitement quickly turned to disappointment upon learning that there would be no bride market. Although traditionally held on the first Saturday of Lent per the Eastern Orthodox Christian calendar, the market had been pushed back a day due to a conflict with Тодоровден (St. Theodore's Day or Horse Easter). We made the most of it, lingering a bit until a chilly wind got the better of us and sent us back to Стара Загора.


Here are some photos from the festivities.

With all the horses running around, we had to pay close attention to avoid being run over. But that was nothing compared to the mob scene that developed after a guy showed up with a miniature horse and allowed the three American girls to climb aboard to pose for photos and take a short ride.

Thursday, March 1, 2012

The Posh Corps

Unless you're an active Peace Corps volunteer or a returned Peace Corps volunteer, or you have an unhealthy obsession with the Peace Corps, you've probably never heard of the Posh Corps. The vision many people have of the Peace Corps is of volunteers living in mud huts, cooking rice over an open flame, bathing and washing their clothes in a bucket of cold water they have to walk three miles to get, reading by candlelight, and sleeping in mosquito netting. To some, volunteers who don't live in such a manner, or something reasonably similar, are not true Peace Corps volunteers. They are members of the Posh Corps.

At a minimum, Posh Corps volunteers are housed in homes or apartments blessed with modern conveniences such as electricity and indoor plumbing (think running water and toilets). They live in towns with grocery stores, cafés, and restaurants. They not only have kitchens, but the kitchens come with refrigerators, stoves, and ovens. Most have hot water heaters. Many have televisions hooked up to cable, and most have internet not only at their worksites but in their homes. The truly lucky ones even have washing machines and dish washers.

At our close of service conference, we all drew questions out of a hat. They were questions we were likely to be asked at some point by people in the USA when we returned home. We formed a large circle and a volunteer started by reading her question, which another volunteer of her choosing had to answer. We went around the circle until every volunteer had asked and answered a question. The question that I was asked was something like, "You served in Eastern Europe in a country that’s part of the European Union? That must have been real difficult (sarcasm)." At the time, I responded with an answer in line with the question, saying something along the lines of, "Yep. They don’t call it the Posh Corps for nothing." My response drew a smattering of boos and hisses from my colleagues and rightfully so.

No question. The volunteers serving in Third World countries face different challenges than we face. But, having talked at length with our former country director and our current assistant country directors, all of whom are former Peace Corps volunteers, as well as some other volunteers who have served in less developed countries, the primary challenges we face as volunteers – corruption, apathy, indifference, malaise, hostility, jealousy, mistrust – vary little from country to country. The work volunteers in less developed countries do might fall lower on Maslow's pyramid, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's more difficult.

Some will undoubtedly disagree and cling to the perceived distinction between real Peace Corps service and Posh Corps service. But how does one make such a distinction? Let's start with a list of ten. Without putting too much thought into it, here are ten things (all of which I've experienced during my service) that make one a Posh Corps volunteer:

10. You know you're in the Posh Corps when you heat your kitchen by opening your refrigerator.

9. You know you're in the Posh Corps when liquids, if left out of your refrigerator in your kitchen, freeze overnight.

8. You know you're in the Posh Corps when frozen locks prevent you from leaving your home, and, at other times, frozen locks prevent you from entering your home.

7. You know you're in the Posh Corps when frozen pipes prevent you from bathing for more than a week.


6. You know you're in the Posh Corps when you stop doing laundry, not only because you don't have water due to frozen pipes, but because even if you did have water you'd have no means by which to dry your clothes.

5. You know you're in the Posh Corps when your tile floor resembles a skating rink and you have no idea what's happening outside because two inches of frost have formed on the inside of all your windows.

4. You know you're in the Posh Corps when you teach less than five days in an entire month due to mandatory school closings ordered first as a result of an influenza epidemic and then as a result of temperatures well in excess of -20° Celsius.

3. You know you're in the Posh Corp when "breaking the seal" means peeing on and breaking up the ice that forms in your toilet bowl overnight.

2. You know you're in the Posh Corps when you sleep in long underwear, sweats, insulated socks, and a stocking cap in a sleeping bag under several wool blankets and you still wake up chilled and shivering because you're so cold.

1. You know you're in the Posh Corps when you lose any and all motivation to do anything other than crawl as far under the covers as possible in an attempt to stay warm.


All things considered, we live very well here. Lots of people, here and elsewhere, have it much rougher than we do. In that respect, our lives are "posh." But people who haven't served here and walked a mile in our shoes (at times through more than two feet of snow) are in no position to judge. The perception of the Posh Corp is far different from reality and is, quite simply, a load of bunk.


Winter was a bitch. Here's hoping Baba Marta is nicer. Честита Баба Марта!


The view from the inside looking out.

The way things have looked outside (even after a fair amount of snow melt).

Wednesday, February 29, 2012

теснолинейка Септември — Добринище (The Septemvri — Dobrinishte Narrow Gauge Train Line)

Six months from today, I’ll be leaving Bulgaria. In terms of work, we’ve got a lot to accomplish between now and then. Good things are happening, and I’m probably more excited now than I’ve been at any point during my entire service. But the clock is also running out on me to see and experience things on my Bulgaria bucket list. Knowing this, I’ve started making a concentrated effort to knock off such items one by one.

Last weekend, I knocked off the first: теснолинейка Септември — Добринище (the Septemvri — Dobrinishte Narrow Gauge Train Line). I’d wanted to take this train ride for some time, and an extended weekend provided the perfect opportunity to do it.

At the advice of a friend who has ridden the entire line, I started two stops from the end of the line in his town, Разлог (Razlog). As someone who loves a good train ride, I thoroughly enjoyed everything about the trip. The scenery was best during the first hour or so of the ride, when we were surrounded by towering snowcapped peaks jutting into blue skies and puffy white clouds, and again near the end before reaching the Upper Thracian Plain, when we followed meandering rivers and were surrounded by precipitous cliffs. It’s not as scenic as the stretch of track through the Iskar Gorge on the Sofia to Mezdra line, but it’s far more interesting because of the Помаци (Pomaks) who live in the villages along the line and hop on and off the train all along the way. Knowing some Bulgarian and eavesdropping on their conversations will enhance your experience, but it’s a ride worth taking even if you don’t know any Bulgarian.


A few shots from Razlog, Bansko, and the train.

Saturday, February 18, 2012

Боженци (Bozhentsi)

A while back, I spent a couple hours wandering around the village of Боженци (Bozhentsi). The place has an interesting history, and all of the buildings are from or are consistent with the Bulgarian National Revival. It's an extremely touristy place which I'd want no part of during the tourist season. Fortunately, we visited in the dead of winter, and encountered only a handful of other tourists. If you want to experience Боженци at its best, that's when I'd advise visiting. Bring a lover, a good book, cozy up next to the fire, enjoy the offerings from one of the many механи (taverns), and drift away into yesteryear.

Here are some shots from around the village.

Thursday, February 2, 2012

Winter Sucks

Last week, we got a lot of snow. It was beautiful, and I had a lot of fun. Now, it's just cold. Actually, it's still really beautiful, but it's difficult to appreciate given how cold it is. Things have gotten worse than this, and I look worse than this. Record low temperatures are the norm. My pipes are frozen, and no matter how many layers of insulated socks, long-underwear, and fleece I put on, and no matter how many wool blankets I climb under, I can't escape the chill. But I'll survive. And this is the last winter I'll ever spend in a cold weather place. Life is too short, and it's just better in sandals (or barefoot).













We have three dogs. Karolina is my guard dog.



No Name is a dog we rescued from a kid with a pitbull.

Pupa is my girl. However much fun she was having, I was having more.









The heavy snow and cold weather has brought interesting birds into the yard. A European Robin has been in picking berries, and a Wren has been picking up scraps. Both are common species, but I don't recall having seen either in the yard before. I know this is the first Fieldfare I've seen in the yard (again, Fieldfares are common in winter in Bulgaria). It's taken up residence in the apple tree, feasting on the leftover apples.

This was too amusing not to share. A California Sun delivery van snowed in in Bulgaria.